Selling a Van Cleef & Arpels piece at auction
A 1920s Van Cleef & Arpels wristwatch that passed through our hands was hammered at €348,160.
Written under the expert’s direction · The firm’s method
Published results
Lady’s wristwatch, c. 1924-1925
€348,160
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The house’s history
The house was born on Place Vendôme in the early twentieth century, from the union of the Van Cleef and Arpels families. It quickly took its place among the great names of Parisian high jewellery.
In the 1930s it patented the Mystery Set, which conceals every trace of the mount beneath an unbroken pavement of stones, a technical feat that became the house’s emblem. The minaudière, born in the same years, turned the evening case into an object of jewellery.
Zip necklaces, Alhambra motifs, precious timepieces: the house’s repertoire sustains strong international demand, and its early signed pieces are keenly fought over in the saleroom.
Recognising a Van Cleef & Arpels piece
As with any great house, authenticity is judged on a converging body of evidence.
The signature
The engraved signature “Van Cleef & Arpels” or “VCA”, almost always with a number.
The hallmarks
French hallmarks: metal fineness and the workshop’s maker’s mark.
The workmanship
The quality of the settings and, on certain pieces, the characteristic Mystery Set, with no visible prongs.
The documents
Original cases and papers, which strengthen the file without being indispensable.
The results in detail
Lady’s wristwatch, platinum and white gold, circa 1924-1925
Entirely set with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and onyx, with a design of two birds in flight, hammered at €348,160. La Gazette Drouot devoted an article to it, “Heure précieuse”.
How do I sell a Van Cleef & Arpels jewel at auction?
Open a file through Cabinet Annabelle Cukierman’s “Sell a piece or a collection” process: photographs of your Van Cleef & Arpels piece, signature and number if visible, any documents you hold. You will hear from us within two business days with a first opinion and the next steps.
How can I tell if a Van Cleef & Arpels jewel is genuine?
On a Van Cleef & Arpels jewel, engraved signature and number, French hallmarks, the quality of the settings, up to the Mystery Set on certain pieces. Expert examination weighs these clues against each other and against the house’s records.
Is an antique Van Cleef & Arpels watch valuable?
Precious Van Cleef & Arpels timepieces from the 1920s and 1930s are among the most sought-after pieces: the lady’s watch circa 1924–1925 for which the firm served as expert was hammered at €348,160, a result published by the firm. Signature, condition and documentation guide the estimate.
Selling a Van Cleef & Arpels piece at auction
We write the description, assemble the file and choose the right sale with you.
Reply within two business days. Strict confidentiality.